Showing posts with label experiments. Show all posts
Showing posts with label experiments. Show all posts

Saturday, July 19, 2008

Stirling Walking Beam

I made a Stirling engine before, but it wasn't "real" in the sense of "having traditional engine parts, like a flywheel and crankshaft". Also, it would be pretty difficult to scale that one up or extract power from it as is. So this is my first regular ENGINE engine. (This is called a "walking beam" engine--many other configurations are possible.)

One reason I built this one was to prove to myself that I really understood how they worked. For that reason, I designed this all myself. Not that there's SO MUCH there. Also, there are tons of videos on YouTube that are identical to mine.

It's be really awesome to scale this up. Like with an oil drum for the displacer cylinder. I'd start that right away, except not only do I not have an oil drum, I'd need access to machine tools to make the power cylinder.

Tips

  • With the power piston shaft and displacer piston shaft mounted on the same point, getting distances right is a little tricky. It's a big parallelogram this way. Make them separate next time. Maybe even on a rotating collar so the phase angle between can be modified.
  • If the shaft tiepoints have a lot of play in them, the engine works jerkily if at all (because all the motion is taken up in using the play).
  • I think I overdid it on the height and underdid it on the width. Could have used a little angle-reducing distance on the piston shaft. Alternatively, shorten the stroke.
  • The flywheel is a little heavy. The momentum should carry it through the compression stroke, it shouldn't have to be barely sucked in.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

New Results

Latest solar trough configuration:

A few details:

  1. Those are just simple, band-sawn parabolic arches. The mirror is attached with velcro. Works awesome. Ly.
  2. I suspended the mirror from the pipe thinking that would keep the focal length constant while allowing simples changes of elevation. Why do I always go straight for the complicatedest solution in the universe?
And data from same:

The highest temp on there is almost 140°C. That's over 280°F. According to my rough calculations, the four steepest upward slopes indicate powers in the range of 20-25 watts. (Some of those dropouts are me messing around with the setup, some are cloud cover. Also, I later discovered that true solar south is like 15 or 20° east of where I've been pointing.)

Two big changes from the last run, other than the already-mentioned one of shortening the excess pipe.

  1. Painted the pipe flat black.
  2. Used a laser pointer to adjust the focus. I mounted a frosted glass square (I happen to have a bunch I bought for just such a use as this) at what I thought would be the focal length. Then I stood back and aimed the laser pointer in a roughly perpendicular way and looked where the point fell. This really needs a System to keep it perpendicular, but anyway I was able to determine that my focus was off by over an inch.
I'm thinking the Mark III will be the last iteration. Pointing in the right direction, and simplifying the pointing a little, may let me add another 10-20 degrees to the peak but that will be about as far as I can go with these simple materials and using an open-air design.

Friday, June 27, 2008

Belated Mirror Squeezer Results

I did one "live" run of data collection from the parabolic mirror squeezer, but after I did it I realized there was a major problem. The pipe was much longer than the mirror width, so it overhung. Too late, I realized that this meant there was unheated oil in there, making the temperature measurement invalid. And I don't even know what direction the error was worse in, since the overhang could also act as cooling fins. Anyway, here's the graph of the results:

It looks very similar to the original run in a hotbox:

One major difference: Check the x-axis. The parabola run is at least 4x steeper.

Anyway, if I get some sun this weekend I should be able to re-run with more accurate results.

Monday, June 2, 2008

Things That Don't Work vs Things That Do

I've never been completely happy with my temperature logger. It's a bit fragile in the sense that if anything at all goes wrong, and there's no way to tell that at the time, I lose the entire run. I lost a run Memorial Day weekend.

Instead of storing the measurements on the Arduino, I'd like to instantly beam them onto my computer far inside the safety of the house. That way I can track things realtime as well as be assured that I have them. Coincidentally, for my birthday, I got both another Arduino1 and Making Things Talk.

The book describes a great number of schemes to make microcontrollers talk to each other and to computers. You can use wireless networking, bluetooth, XBee, etc (I have only the vaguest notion what some of these are). Naturally the easiest protocols require the most expensive hardware. I only need one way, slow communication, so I got a simple RF module.

Claim:

It works just like a serial port! Just connect the transmitter to the TX pin and the receiver to the RX pin! It Just Works(tm)!

Reality:

No.

Perhaps my unit was faulty. I found many tutorials and guides across the internets and while results varies, I can't ever really say it worked. I did see data appear for a short time, but mainly what I saw was noise. Or nothing at all, which is even less explicable.

Last night I had a brainwave. Or brainstorm. Something happened to my brain and it resulted in an idea. Why not use a wireless laptop as the go between? The kids have these OLPC dealies. The laptop has a USB port and does WiFi. I have a WiFi router (specifically purchased, used, to work with these laptops). About 30 minutes and 10 lines of Python later, I was reading values from /dev/ttyUSB0 and sending them out over a socket to my desktop to another 15 minutes and 20 lines of Python.

The guts of the entire scheme are already there. But with so much success so fast, I'd like to add features. For instance, instant graphing of values on both ends. A protocol so that the laptop knows if there's been an error and can tell me, out in the field. When I have more than one sensor, I'll need a way to indicate which sensor had what value. It'll be like a complete Science Sensing Station!

1If you are at all interested in robots, sensors, controlling stuff with computers, electronics or just plain messing around, I highly recommend the Arduino. That SparkFun item is all you need, assuming you have a USB port (and possibly a cable). Well....you may also need some external electronics, depending on what you want to do. LEDs, resistors, motors, etc.

Thursday, May 22, 2008

Ta-Da!

Once I abandoned the dead end of heat-formed acrylic, the ideas for cold-forming have been coming thick and fast. Here's the result of the squeezer configuration.

First, the squeezer itself:

Closeup of squeezing mechanism:

Result:

Closeup of accuracy:

Soo....yeah. That works. The squeezer is a bit overbuilt. I could go with 2x2s or even smaller next time. And one bolt every couple feet instead of every 6 inches. Other minor improvements. Those may never be made, though, since I had a real brainstorm on an extremely simple way to accomplish the same thing. More on that another time, though. I'm going to use this for my next experiment.

Wednesday, January 23, 2008

The Parable of the Parallel Parabola

OK, so....man, I wish I'd been detailing every little step so I wouldn't have to regurgitate it all up in a huge mass. I'll try to make this short.

First of all, I used my calculation to make a simple parabolic reflector. I just plotted it out on graph paper and then set a few nails as guides to hold the mirror in place. This actually worked really well. (Even more surprising in light of how poorly the (first!) oven-formed one came out. More about which below.)

The one on the right has a black dot where I pre-calculated the focus to be, the one on the left is just a different focal length.

Now then. Having a single strip mounted with nails isn't that useful to me, so I want to mass produce these. Can't use the nail thing as a form since it'll just bend unevenly. I spent quite a few days trying to figure out how to make a jig that would cut a perfect parabola, but it was too hard (I still have some ideas on that, though, but that's another 2 or 3 posts). (And before you tell me, I know all about the T-square and string method of drawing one.) I eventually decided to just freehand follow a line.

So I had my shop assistant cut a parabola for me and I sandwiched the mirror in there. (My shop assistant is my father-in-law down the street who actually owns a bandsaw.)

(Other item of note: I originally wanted to have the mirror soften and sink down into shape, but that creates alignment problems. Instead I clamped the bendy strip cold. But that means it's hard to tell when I've reached temperature. So I put a probe down into the coldest part of the thing. The tip of the temperature probe is resting right on the mirror, so when that gets up to ~210°F, I can stick a fork in it. This takes like 2 hours--wood is a really great insulator, unfortunately.)

(Oh also: You can't see it, but there's a little alignment peg sticking out of the convex part of the form. There's a corresponding hole in the concave part so it can stick through. There's also a hole in the middle of each mirror. If I put each mirror on the peg, then after I'm done with all of them, I can line them up perfectly. So clev.)

The result: Not so great.

How could that possibly be? How could a few nails hastily thrown together at a few points make a better parabola than a careful, full-contact form?

Then a phrase floated up out of the darkness1. The curve parallel to a parabola is not another parabola. Just think about that for a minute. If you have a parabola and you want to make a curve parallel to it, you can't just take the same parabola and shift it up. Nor can you use some other parabola. (Read the gories yourself, it's pretty cool. If you like that sort of thing.)

So if you cut a parabolic form and sandwich it around a mirror, FOR EXAMPLE, then you are probably going to get the wrong shape because the two halves want to be parallel (i.e. separated by the thickness of the mirror) but can't. Wellity wellity wellity.

I took the equations in that paper and made a little program2 that would generate an SVG file of the shapes I wanted. Now I can take those back to my shop assistant and have him cut it out again.

(Note to anyone who actually reads this far, runs the program, examines the output and starts wondering: The curves aren't really all that different. I think the issue isn't so much that the curve is wrong, but that the poor alignment doesn't provide even pressure across the entire mirror. So it ends up wibbly-wobbly rather than smooth. Then again, the freehand wood parabola isn't all that smooth either, so maybe THAT'S the source of the error. The nail method at least creates a smooth curve, even if it isn't mathematically perfect.)

1I think it came from Practical Conic Sections, a really rip-roaring tale that I've been reading to the kids at bedtime. But seriously, it's very clear and pretty practical.

2

#!/usr/bin/python

# p1 and p2 are parallel to the parabola, i.e. a constant distance
# away *along the normal to the parabola*.

# For a curve C with generated by the function y = f(x), the parallel
# curve C' is given parametrically by:

#                 y'
# X = x - k -------------
#           sqrt(1+(y')^2)
#
#                 1
# Y = y + k -------------
#           sqrt(1+(y')^2)

# where k is the distance of the parallel from the curve.

# For derivation, see "The Curve Parallel to a Parabola is not a
# Parabola" by F. Max Stein.

import math

print '<?xml version="1.0" standalone="no"?>'
print '<!DOCTYPE svg PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD SVG 1.1//EN"'
print '"http://www.w3.org/Graphics/SVG/1.1/DTD/svg11.dtd">'
print '<svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"'
print '    width="8.5in" height="14in">'

focallength = 2.5
a = 1/(4.0 * focallength)
mirrorwidth = .125

vertoffset = 7
horizoffset = 2
phorizoffset = 2
prevx = 0
prevy = 0
pprevx = 0
pprevy = 0
first = True
x = -5.5
while x <= 5.5:
    y = a*x*x
    px = x - (mirrorwidth * 2 * a * x)/(math.sqrt(1 + (2*a*x)**2))
    py = y + (mirrorwidth * 1)/(math.sqrt(1 + (2*a*x)**2))
    if not first:
        print '<line x1="%.2fin" y1="%.2fin" x2="%.2fin" y2="%.2fin" style="stroke:black;stroke-width:2"/>' \
              % (prevy+horizoffset, prevx+vertoffset, y+horizoffset,x+vertoffset)
        print '<line x1="%.2fin" y1="%.2fin" x2="%.2fin" y2="%.2fin" style="stroke:red;stroke-width:2"/>' \
              % (pprevy+phorizoffset, pprevx+vertoffset, py+phorizoffset,px+vertoffset)
    prevx = x
    prevy = y
    pprevx = px
    pprevy = py
    x += .125
    first = False

print '</svg>'

Monday, January 7, 2008

SUCCESS!

A non-blurry, curved mirror.

In my last post, I hypothesized the problem might be too much time spent in the oven, causing some kind of degradation. That prompted epicanis to wonder if the acrylic was oxidizing. That in turn made me actually take a close look at the failed samples (why I didn't already do this is a mystery).

The acrylic is actually fine in those failures. It's the mirror backing that cheesed out on me. What is the backing made of? Who knows! What do I do about it? I dunno!

Then I was coincidentally reading a book about polymer clay and it had a tip for firing: Put it in at a sub-firing temperature to evenly heat the item, then turn it up to actually harden it. And I was all: whoa. I know that the softening point for acrylic is around 230°F, but I've had to turn the oven up to 250°F to get the samples to bend. I've been chalking it up to oven imprecision and chemical composition variation. But I think the real issue is that the core of the mirror doesn't get hot enough until the outside is too hot.

So this time I put the whole apparatus (which I should have taken a pic of, sorry) inside the oven at 200°F until a probe told me it was more or less up to temp. Then I just cranked it up to 215°F and voila, it worked.

Now I need to do a bunch of these at once (or one large sheet)...

Friday, December 28, 2007

Acrylic Mirror Failures Learning Opportunities

The acrylic mirror samples arrived. I got 3 mirrors about the size of a credit card, but thicker, like a piece of glass.

OBJECTIVE: Create a "trough mirror" that focuses onto a line.

KEY FACT #1: Acrylic mirror softens and bends at around 230-250°F.

KEY FACT #2: A parabola is a mathematically perfect focusing shape, but (a small section of) a circle is plenty fine for my needs.

FIRST ATTEMPT:

I got a big, glass jar with smooth sides. I put it lying down inside the oven. I balanced the mirror on top, shiny side pointing down (and with the protective plastic sheet still on it). I had to tape the mirror in place.

Starting at around 215°F, I slowly heated the oven up until the mirror ends started drooping. After probably an hour of watching it slooooooowly bend, I just reached in with an oven mitt and press-formed it to the glass.

RESULT: Meh. The shape is great and the focusing is accurate but the mirror got all foggy. It looks more like polished metal now. Also the spots where the tape was touching are distorted.

SECOND ATTEMPT:

My theory was that I should have the mirror pointing up, which might make the cloudiness go away and would make using tape unnecessary.

This time I used a regular soup pan tipped on its side. I put the mirror inside so it could form to the inside curve of the pan. Left the protective plastic on. Set the oven to 250°F (that's what I had worked up to from the first attempt) and waited. And waited. And waited.

Once again, I eventually just reached in and press formed it. When I removed the sheet....still cloudy.

THIRD ATTEMPT:

I watched the video again. Oh, I'm supposed to remove the protective plastic. Replay the second attempt, but this time remove the thing first.

After waiting the requisite Long Time, I could see the mirror was already foggy even before I press forming it. Aha! Not the plastic or the form!

WHAT'S PROBABLY GOING ON:

I have small samples, so gravity isn't enough to bend them until they are very soft from being in the oven for 45 minutes or more. In that amount of time, some chemical degradation (or something) is causing the cloudiness. If I rig up some way to put a weight on top of the sample, maybe I could speed that up. Or I could just reach in there earlier and do it by hand.

But now I'm out of samples. I can bend and rebend the cloudy ones just to test out some weighting system and/or get my timing right. But I'll only be able to check if the cloudiness disappears if I buy more mirror. Which I can do, but I hate the shipping charges. Ah well.

Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Miscellaneous

  1. I had a long, long thing here about how following my plan was so easy, but it kept reading like Tighter Buns in 30 Days While Eating Pizza, so let's leave it at this: Down by almost 27 pounds.
  2. Way back when, I did some solar experiments. I said I'd come back to that. I'm still working on that. The problem is, the design I came up with is kind of crappy.

    What I want is a parabolic trough mirror focused on a central pipe. I've tried using mylar sheets on various surfaces before, but it didn't come out too well. This time I tried strips of mirror laid in a wooden parabolic form. I haven't tested it yet, but it doesn't look too convincing on the workbench. Lots of gaps, not much total area, not well focused, etc. (No picture, because seriously.)

    While I was wondering what to do about all this, I came across this video. The guy comes across as a little infomercially, but his ideas look pretty good. In particular, I didn't know you could "drape form" plexiglass (aka "acrylic") mirror. That changes everything! Almost zero work and much higher efficiency.

  3. Which brings me to the third misc item. WhereTF do you find acrylic mirror at a reasonable price? I've found it as low as $4.50/sqft, but you have to buy at least $50, not to mention shipping. Plenty of ebayers, but the price with shipping never comes out lower than ~$12/sqft and you have to buy several sqft to get that. Lowe's can special order it, but you have to buy 5 48"x96" sheets and it's still $8/sqft. McMaster-Carr, despite their awesome website, doesn't reveal shipping information even if you ask a live human being, which, HELLO.

    This kind of mirror is used in a lot of children's products because it's shatterproof, so I've considered repurposing a baby mirror, but the cost is still pretty high there due to packaging, frames, etc. I've even wandered around Home Depot and Lowe's to see if I could find a bathroom/decorative/whatever acrylic mirror on some other product. The sole success was a really, really crappy medicine cabinet with attached acrylic mirror. The whole unit was $12 and the mirror was 2 sqft.

    I would just go with that, but the fact that it's attached to something else only proves that I should be able to get the mirror alone for cheaper. Also, I hate to buy something specifically so I can throw it away. In the mean time, I ordered a set of these to experiment with. With the shipping, even amortized over several other items in my order, the price per sqft comes out at lalalaicanthearyou.

Tuesday, November 6, 2007

Tornado in a Box

1: Cut a hole in a box
2: Put your.....no

1: Make a large, square(ish), cardboard tube. Mine is about a meter high and maybe .25 m x .25 m at the base. This is actually two boxes taped together. They aren't even the same size--I just blocked the holes with cardboard and duct tape.

2: On each side, make a slit near the right edge. Or the left edge. But the same for all 4 sides. It doesn't matter which you pick, since you can reverse it by flipping the tube end for end.

The exact width and distance from the edge don't matter too much and you can see I wandered all over the place. Hey, cutting cardboard is kind of hard!

3: Boil some water inside. I went to WalMart for a hotplate but the cheapest one was $20. I tried it on the stove, but that's dangerous and it was hard to see. Then I thought of the bottom of the rice steamer.

Position the tornado box under a light to maximize the reflection from the droplets.

We found that when the steamer was going full....steam, there was too much steam in there swirling around (steam steam steam). So if you turn it on and off every few minutes it might work better. Also, we tried using a steam humidifier but we got nothing at all. I think the steam jet might be coming out too fast and hot. (An ultrasonic humidifier probably has better visibility, but since it isn't hot you'd be missing another vital ingredient.)

The payoff at the end: I asked the Numbers, now that they'd seen a tornado being made, when and where would hurricanes be most likely? In the winter at the North Pole or in the summer at the equator. Ooooooooh, I get it! they said.

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

What Price A Stamp?

So stamp prices are going up again. And by "going" I mean "went, like 5 months ago". The wheels of Project Potpourri grind slowly, but they grind exceedingly fine.

Now they have a Forever Stamp. You buy it today and it will be good until the end of time regardless of future price increases. Sounds like a great way to save literally hundreds of cents, right? My wife (or maybe it was me--these human details are so much dross) posed this question: If I buy a 41 cent Forever Stamp in 2007, am I really saving money vs a 53 cent stamp in 2020 or does it come out in the inflationary wash?

IIRC, inflation is something like 3% per year, but of course we don't have the information on what future stamp prices are going to be. What about history? How closely have stamp prices tracked inflation in the past? Using a history of stamp prices and relative dollar values since 1913 I was able to answer this question. (Notes: All this is based on the first ounce only. I didn't try to go back farther than 1913. For each year, I only use the average dollar value for the year, I didn't break it down by month. For years with more than one price increase, I only report the last one. Since 2007 isn't over yet, I used the last dollar value available, which is September.)

YearApparent price that yearStamp price in 2007 dollars% diff relative to today
19170.030.4916
19190.020.24-70
19320.030.4610
19580.040.29-42
19630.050.34-20
19680.060.36-14
19710.080.410
19740.100.423
19750.130.5018
19780.150.4814
19810.200.4610
19850.220.433
19880.250.446
19910.290.447
19950.320.446
19990.330.410
20010.340.40-2
20020.370.434
20060.390.40-1
20070.410.410

It used to fluctuate quite a bit, but for almost the last 30 years, they've been within a few percents of the same price. And given that even a 10% difference is only $.04, I'd call it fairly constant over the last 100 years (except for a few years).

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

The Temperature of What?

So I had all these posts about temperature logging and one post with the actual logged temperatures...but the temperature of what?

A solar hot box!

You probably already know what this is, but just in case you don't: It's basically a tiny greenhouse. Or like a car left in the sun at noon in August. Only it's even hotter, since it is insulated, painted black and pointed right at the sun.

Inside the box I put a jar with 250 ml of cooking oil and poked a hole in the lid for a temperature probe. That's what these temps are.

Why did I choose cooking oil? Because I didn't want evaporation to be a problem. For one thing, it would fog up the inside of the glass. For another, it would cap my max temperature at 100°C (not that that turned out to be a problem in this case). And lastly, it would change the amount of water in the bottle and I needed that to be a constant because I did some calculations with it.

Knowing the amount of oil and the temperature change (plus looking up the specific heat of vegetable oil), I can calculate the rate at which energy is entering the oil. For the above graph, I got 2.5 watts for the steepest part of the curve. However, I see that the site I just linked to has the specific heat of veg oil as 1.67 kJ/kg K and I was using 2.5. So maybe the power is really more like 3.7 watts.

Knowing the area of the collector I can also calculate the amount of power falling into the box. That's about 75 watts. So the end-to-end efficiency was only about 3-5%. Not that great.

Imagine if you put a cup of water on the table and then turn the furnace thermostat up to 90°. How much energy are you going to waste before the water gets hot? This illustrates the 3 main problems:

  1. Air passively surrounding a container of liquid isn't going to heat it very fast.
  2. There's a lot of volume of air being heated uselessly.
  3. During all this time, heat is escaping the cracks, windows, chimney, etc. In the case of the hot box, the glass front gets very hot and is radiating a lot of the energy right back out.
If a hot box is like an oven, the next version will be like a microwave. Don't heat up the air, just beam energy right into the substance.

Sunday, July 22, 2007

Temperature Logging Part III: The Exciting Conclusion

Some pics of the final state: You might notice an extra button. I decided to write to EEPROM rather than an array after all. The reason was an unreliable power situation. A 9V battery lasts for a few hours and I didn't want to lose hours of data at the last second. So we have a switch for power on/off, a button for "send data" and a button for "start collecting data". The last one is I can control when the EEPROM starts getting overwritten the next time I turn it on.

That relatively minor change forced a paradigm shift in what processing was done where. Originally, I was just reading the voltage ratio from the pin and sending it to the PC that did the work to convert to degrees. The pin reports a value in 10 bits (i.e. 0-1023) but the EEPROM stores only bytes (i.e. 0-255). I could have renormalized to the smaller range, but only at the loss of a lot of precision. Instead, I now calculate the temp right on the Arduino. Surprisingly (to me, anyway), you can use the regular math library functions like log(). So then I end up with a temperature that practically speaking won't get above 255 or below 0, and even if it did I could add or subtract a constant to recenter it to my working range. I will describe what temperature I was logging in another post, but for now here's the pretty graph.

Tuesday, July 17, 2007

Light and Fluffy as a Kitten...Sprayed with Pam

I've heard this claim before: You don't really need to shampoo your hair. Your head chemistry will adjust if you stop stripping the natural oils from it.

OK, sure. However, in this article the author not only claims that his hair is "as light and fluffy as a kitten's coat" but he also gives the basic idea on how go about the experiment. So I decided to try it and compare my head to a hypothetical kitten.

Experimental Procedure

  • The article author hedges about what exactly he's putting on his head. "No de-greasant" means what exactly? Are you still conditioning? Since the only thing I use is regular shampoo (i.e. liquid soap), I decided to just use plain water. Every morning I dunk my head in the shower and scrub it thoroughly with fingers and fingernails, but use "no de-greasant".
  • I also vaguely remember some other claim about "redistributing oils", so I also combed.
Results after one week
My hair is definitely less greasy-seeming than I expected. I normally shampoo every other day and when I skip a soaping I definitely notice it. My hair feels clumpy and gross. Rinsing and combing seems to fix that so I don't really notice.

On the other hand, I wouldn't say my hair feels clean, either. If I run my hands through it they start feeling like I've been eating potato chips. OK, maybe not that bad, but I'm not squeaky clean. In fact, when I rinse in the morning I have to wash my hands with soap after.

When I started this post I thought he said to try it for a week, but now I see it says a "few weeks". OK, I can probably stick it out a little while longer. No one has commented on it, so I guess I'm not too awful to behold.