You probably already know what this is, but just in case you don't: It's basically a tiny greenhouse. Or like a car left in the sun at noon in August. Only it's even hotter, since it is insulated, painted black and pointed right at the sun.
Inside the box I put a jar with 250 ml of cooking oil and poked a hole in the lid for a temperature probe. That's what these temps are.
Why did I choose cooking oil? Because I didn't want evaporation to be a problem. For one thing, it would fog up the inside of the glass. For another, it would cap my max temperature at 100°C (not that that turned out to be a problem in this case). And lastly, it would change the amount of water in the bottle and I needed that to be a constant because I did some calculations with it.
Knowing the amount of oil and the temperature change (plus looking up the specific heat of vegetable oil), I can calculate the rate at which energy is entering the oil. For the above graph, I got 2.5 watts for the steepest part of the curve. However, I see that the site I just linked to has the specific heat of veg oil as 1.67 kJ/kg K and I was using 2.5. So maybe the power is really more like 3.7 watts.
Knowing the area of the collector I can also calculate the amount of power falling into the box. That's about 75 watts. So the end-to-end efficiency was only about 3-5%. Not that great.
Imagine if you put a cup of water on the table and then turn the furnace thermostat up to 90°. How much energy are you going to waste before the water gets hot? This illustrates the 3 main problems:
- Air passively surrounding a container of liquid isn't going to heat it very fast.
- There's a lot of volume of air being heated uselessly.
- During all this time, heat is escaping the cracks, windows, chimney, etc. In the case of the hot box, the glass front gets very hot and is radiating a lot of the energy right back out.
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